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Skimo on island time: the Pierra Creta

Chloe Jimenez and Pierra Creta Founder Nikiforos Steiakakis skin through Lefka Ori, Crete’s White Mountains, a few days prior to the skimo race. The Pierra Creta is held to the east on Mount Psiloritis. ◙ Greta Close

On the first day of March, I stepped off a small airplane and out onto a windy runway on the island of Crete. At baggage claim, I grabbed photographer Chloe Jimenez and my ski bag, and together we set out into the cool, Greek night air.

I can confidently say that I did not expect to ever be rolling ski gear over narrow cobblestone streets on an ancient island in the middle of the Aegean Sea. And I definitely didn’t think it would be for a skimo race. But here we were, halfway around the world for the Pierra Creta, a biennial skimo race on Crete’s highest mountain.

Quickly, Chloe and I became acquainted with Cretan culture. Be present, not punctual; times, schedules and plans are a very rough suggestion. Eat until you can’t, and always expect a shot of raki (local grape liquor).

In many ways, it all seemed to be the antithesis of skimo and to some extent backcountry skiing.

But after a week on the island, you lean in. By the time the race rolled around, I was counting on the delayed start, and I was convinced the two raki stations would make me that much faster. Christa, my 60-something-year-old Bavarian ski partner for the race, and I placed first for women and eighth overall on the A route—maybe there was something to drinking mid-course.

In hindsight, the 5,000 feet of climbing, epic corn skiing and sprint through mud to reach the finish line felt secondary to the rest of the experience: the traditional dancers who kicked off the event and the local priest who blessed the start; the communal dinner afterwards and the live Cretan music that played long into the night; and the pure range of skiers and riders who, like me, had made their way to this unexpected place for a very unique skimo race.

—Greta

Stay tuned for more about the Pierra Creta in print next winter.

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