2015 Beer Test: Skintrack Suds

Like gear for any snow condition, there’s beer for every occasion. So this year, we organized our annual beer review by where and when our panel of home brewers, beer aficionados and a certified beer judge would prefer to drink them. The format is simple: Skintrack beers are lower in ABV and sessionable, Parking Lot/Après brews are satisfying anytime, anywhere (but particularly after skiing), and Hut to Hut beers include those special, high-ABV drinks worth a coveted spot in your pack. Then again, no matter where or how you drink these, they’ll taste good.

Left to right: Squatters Craft Beers Full Suspension Pale Ale, Backcountry Brewery Berliner Weisse, Two Beers Brewing Grey Skies Dark Pale Ale, Rock Art Brewery Black Currant Saison, Hilliard’s Beer Saison, The People’s Pint Our Oatmeal Stout, Fremont Brewing Company Universale Pale Ale, Tuckerman Brewing Company Headwall Alt. [Photo] Kalin Bucholz

Backcountry Brewery
Berliner Weisse
backcountrybrewery.com
Frisco, CO | ABV: 3.9%

Testers didn’t let their first sip of this sour beer stop them from going in for seconds. One loved this German-style wheat ale’s “prominent yeast aroma.” Another called it “refreshing and oh so good.” No hops here: low bitterness and high carbonation give this brew a pleasant mouthfeel.

+ This much character in a four-percent beer is impressive.
– The sourness might scare off some.
= Refreshing and oh so good.

Fremont Brewing Company
Universale Pale Ale
fremontbrewing.com
Seattle, WA | ABV: 5.6%

Like a well-carved turn, the Universale tastes smooth and light with a little pop of spice. One tester called it “pleasantly floral,” and another mentioned the “earthy hop aroma and light malt.” “The healthy hop bitterness does well to compensate for the light body,” a third concluded.

+ A burst of thirst relief.
– Light on body for such a full hop flavor.
= The solid bitterness will scare off the cheap-beer crowd.

Hilliard’s Beer
Saison
hilliardsbeer.com
Seattle, WA | ABV: 6.6%

While this style isn’t for everyone, this beer does a good job representing what a Saison should taste like. A veteran taster called it a “classic Saison” with “crisp grain, banana and clove with a hint of sour on the nose.” “Moderate to light body and carbonation,” another said. “A good option for the skintrack.”

+ Available in pint cans.
– Testers were divided over the sourness.
= Tastes how a Saison should with a modern, higher ABV.

Rock Art Brewery
Black Currant Saison
rockartbrewery.com
Morrisville, VT | ABV: 5%

“What’s a currant?” “The things they put in scones.” With that exchange, our crack test team found “just enough Belgian funk” and succulent fruit flavor and tartness in Rock Art’s Saison. And, as another tester mentioned, it’s not fruity enough “to go all wine cooler on you.”

+ Tastes of deliciously ripe fruit.
– Light on Belgian yeast character.
= Dry like the powder we dream about.

Squatters Craft Beers
Full Suspension Pale Ale
squatters.com
Salt Lake City, UT | ABV: 4%

Testers found the Salt Lake-brewed Full Suspension delightfully malty and hoppy, and one called it the ideal brew for rehydrating. “Hoppy while staying balanced,” one said. “Floral hops were upfront, malt notes behind.” Another found “a full suspension of hop bitterness and a dry, light malt backbone.”

+ Impressive body at four percent.
– A little light on aroma.
= The rich hop profile stays refreshing while being flavorful.

The People’s Pint
Our Oatmeal Stout
thepeoplespint.com
Greenfield, MA | ABV: 5.1%

A black beer that’s refreshing? “This beer delivers the silky smoothness one would expect from an oatmeal stout, but [with a] light body,” a tester said. Another mentioned that “the roast was present but not prominent, which led to sweetness that wasn’t overpowering.”

+ Roasty, dark and creamy yet sessionable.
– The sweetness borders on that of a milk stout.
= Bottled but worth carrying the weight.

Tuckerman Brewing Company
Headwall Alt
tuckermanbrewing.com
Conway, NH | ABV: 4.75%

Named for the premier line above this brewery’s namesake ravine, this Alt is a lighter yet more flavorful beer than other sessions. “The light hop bitterness and a light, toasty malt beckon you to have more,” a tester said. “An everyday Alt you can take anywhere,” another concluded.

+ Up, down, repeat.
– The aftertaste wasn’t for everyone.
= Gear up, grab a six and get going.

Two Beers Brewing
Grey Skies Dark Pale Ale
twobeersbrewery.com
Seattle, WA | ABV: 5.1%

The Gray Skies is a Seattle favorite, and our Vermont testers got it, too. “Floral hops with a bit of roast in the nose leads to a nice amount of hop flavor, dark bitterness and tasty, light toast,” one tester said. Another called it “an easy drinking, hoppy beer that would pair well with fruits.”

+ Darker without sacrificing drinkability.
– Named for inclement weather.
= Dark and tasty for dark days.